Marc Jacobs‘ Fall Winter 2024 runway show at the Park Avenue Armory in New York City marked a distinctive shift in beauty muse from the ubiquitous Barbie of 2023 to a more nuanced doll-inspired aesthetic, channeling the iconic style of Diana Ross from the 1960s. The celebrated makeup artist Diane Kendal, in collaboration with Jacobs, envisioned models transformed into living dolls, employing a striking makeup technique that focused on creating exaggerated, spidery lashes.
This was achieved not with traditional mascara but with an innovative use of black nail polish applied over false lashes, resulting in a glossy, vinyl-like effect that dramatically framed the eyes. “I racked my brain trying to figure out how to do it. And then, I thought, We’ll coat it with nail polish, so it gets a shiny, vinyl effect and goes completely spidery. Then we’ll double it up.” – said Kendal for Elle. The makeup design was further accentuated with white greasepaint at the corners of the eyes for stark contrast and a sculpted, taupe contour along the cheekbones.
The whimsical hair creations, crafted by hairstylist Duffy, featured bouffants teased to extreme volumes, resembling cotton candy in both texture and scale, contributing to the overall toy-like illusion.
Nail art, too, was meticulously considered, with nail artist Jin Soon Choi collaborating with Jacobs to select three “unexpected” opaque nudes from CND shades—Bare Chemise, Satin Pajamas, and Field Fox—to match the skin tones of each model individually, as per Jacobs’ directive for a polished and opaque finish.
The setting for the show, conceptualized to immerse attendees and models alike in a dollhouse fantasy, featured oversized furniture that further amplified the theme. Director Sofia Coppola captured this unique presentation, documenting the models as they navigated through the set, emphasizing the doll-like narrative that Jacobs envisioned for his 40th-anniversary celebration in the fashion industry.
This approach, blending elements of nostalgia with contemporary beauty techniques, underscores Marc Jacobs’ enduring ability to innovate and surprise, offering a fresh take on glam that is both whimsical and deeply rooted in fashion history.